Name: Bearded Dragon
Scientific Name: Pogona vitticeps
AKA: "Beardie", Inland or Central Bearded Dragon.
General Information
Distribution
All species are from Australia, but they have been exported worldwide and bred successfully in captivity.
Wild Status
In the wild, the various species are widely distributed throughout different regions of Australia.
Description
Bearded Dragons have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, When threatened, they will expand a spiny pouch under
their jaw and turn it black, as well as inhale air and puff up to make them appear larger. The pouch resembles a beard, lending
the animal their name. Males are often slightly larger than females, with a broader head in proportion to their bodies, but
females are often slightly more heavily set. Bearded Dragons have a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized scales)
radiating horizontally from the head to the base of the tail. Their color ranges from light tan to dark brown, depending on their
native soil, often with highlights of black, brilliant red, or gold, and can change somewhat depending upon their internal
condition.
Size
Babies are 1.5” - 2” with adults reaching approximately 18 to 24 inches head-to-tail.
Lifespan
Bearded Dragons live about 10-15 years with proper care in captivity, though some can live up to 20 years old.
Color Mutations
Lemon Fire, Orange Fire, Chris Allen Red, Citrus, Leucistic, Albino, Lavender and plenty more.
Captive Maintenance Guidelines
Difficulty Level
Beginner + . Bearded Dragons are known to be very docile and trusting, yet at the same time, outgoing and curious lizards.
Their behavior includes body language such as head bobbing and leg waving. It is not recommended to try and arouse this
behavior, however, as it is territorial in nature. Bearded Dragons are one of the more docile and friendly lizard species in the
lizard pet trade. Unlike many large Monitor lizards and smaller lizards like Anoles, Bearded Dragons tend to enjoy human
contact and to be handled by humans. They rarely bite, scratch, or otherwise attack a human. As a result, Bearded Dragons
are a suitable reptile for a house with children.
Enclosure
A 20 gallon (75 litre) aquarium is the bare minimum for a juvenile Bearded Dragon, however they will fast outgrow this within
their first year. For an adult the minimum is a 40 gallon breeder, though many breeders recommend a 55 gallon breeder
instead. This allows the Dragon ample space to turn around, lie down, and run to and fro as it chooses.
Bearded Dragons bask most of the day, absorbing the heat they need to digest their food. It is important that there are at least
one or two good basking spots in the Dragon's habitat. Rocks are preferable to logs as they hold heat better, though logs can
also provide stimulation for the animal as they will climb up and down it. Any item taken from the outside must first be boiled or
baked, however, to remove contaminants. Electric or battery powered heating devices such as “Hot Rocks” can cause
stomach burns if they malfunction and should not be used. A habitat should also include something the Dragon can hide under.
Substrate
Substrate is another very important factor in keeping a healthy Dragon. Babies and Juveniles are often kept on paper towels,
as they are easy to dispose of and clean up after. Tile is another popular choice, as is reptile carpet. As the Dragon gets older
is can be put on finely sifted play or calcium sand. However some owners won't put their adults Dragons on that, because sand
can be ingested and cause impaction. Walnut shells, wood chips, and anything else of that sort are never to be used. They are
large, with sharp edges, and can be swallowed. They are not digestible, however, and will cause a very painful fatal impaction
Temperatures & Heating
Bearded Dragons need bright white light during the day. At night a red light can be used, as it will provide heat and you will be
able to see it, but it will not disturb the animal's sleep cycle. Under tank heaters are one option for keeping the tank warm at
night when the heating lamp is off, while ceramic heat emitters are another.
Temperature is one of the most important health factors. A Dragon needs the correct temperature to digest, so a good
thermometer is essential. Temps need to be 95-110 during day and 60-80 at night (the higher end of this range for babies, the
lower portion of the range for adult Dragons). If the dragons do not receive the proper heat they will become lethargic, and they
will eat less. Eventually the lack of proper heating will become fatal.
Humidity
Fortunately Bearded Dragons are very low-maintenance regarding humidity requirements. Normal household ambient humidity
is fine for this species. They do require a daily misting and a small water bowl should be provided.
Lighting
A UVB light is needed, with two options being available, Fluorescent strip bulbs or mercury vapor bulbs. These bulbs will need
to be kept within 8 inches of the basking spot so your lizard can properly absorb the rays and need to be replaced every 6
months. Without a good UVB the Dragon will develop MBD and not eat as much. A Dragon needs between 12 and 14 hours of
daylight; much less or more causes problems with their circadian rhythms and makes them lethargic and sick.
Water
A small water bowl should be provided. The water bowl should be cleaned and refilled daily.
Accessories
Bearded Dragons bask most of the day, absorbing the heat they need to digest their food. It is important that there are at least
one or two good basking spots in the Dragon's habitat. Rocks are preferable to logs as they hold heat better, though logs can
also provide stimulation for the animal as they will climb up and down it. A habitat should also include something the Dragon
can hide under.
Feeding
Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, requiring both insects and vegetable food. A typical diet for captive Bearded Dragons
includes ample quantities of leafy greens and vegetables, and regular meals of feeder insects.
Popular feeder insects include crickets, roaches, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, and phoenix worms. The mealworm
has a fairly hard chitin (exoskeleton) and is generally low in the "chitin to meat" ratio, making it less nutritious than other
feeder insects. Chitin is hard enough that large amounts of it can compact Bearded Dragon's digestion system, and can lead to
death, especially in younger animals. Waxworms can be given as a treat, but no more than 1 or 2 a week in most cases as
they are extremely fatty, and in some cases very addictive. The rule of thumb on feeder insects is that the food fed to the
animal must not be larger than the space between the eyes; feeding something larger could make it hard for the animal to
swallow the food and can lead to the aforementioned fatal impaction.
Before being offered to the Dragon, it is recommended that insects be fed for at least 24 hours in advance, or "gut-loaded" to
increase their nutritional value. Commercial cricket foods for gut-loading are available, but many household food items may be
used instead, such as a half a slice of potato. It is also highly recommended that any insects being fed to the lizard first be
dusted with a phosphorus-free commercial calcium supplement, as Bearded Dragons are susceptible to Metabolic Bone
Disease, or MBD if their calcium and vitamin D3 requirements are not met. Insects caught in the wild are not recommended,
due to the increased risk of pesticide exposure and parasites. Fireflies and all other animals with bioluminescence chemicals
can be fatal to Bearded Dragons. A significant portion of the Bearded Dragon's diet must consist of leafy greens. Dragons
enjoy many types of readily available greens, including: collard greens, escarole, turnip greens, mustard greens, romaine
lettuce, dandelion greens, parsley, kale, and carrot tops. It is also recommended that this portion of the Dragon's diet be
supplemented with a variety of finely diced fruits, vegetables, and legumes. Feeding a mixture of these plants ensures a wider
variety of nutrients, and variations in texture to aid digestion. As with insects, however, certain plants can be toxic to Dragons.
The Avocado and Rhubarb are highly deadly to Dragons, as well as particular greens; iceberg lettuce, as an example, causes
diarrhea and dehydrates the animal, while spinach binds calcium and can lead to MBD.
Maintenance
Spot-clean your Dragon’s enclosure as necessary. When feces/urates/uneaten prey items are present, remove them as soon
as possible. Clean and disinfect the water bowl on a daily basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove all substrate and cage
furniture and completely disinfect using a 5% bleach solution approximately every 30 - 45 days. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly
and allow to dry before replacing cage furniture and your Beardie.
Basic Reproductive Info
Due to selective breeding, Dragons have begun to exhibit rather distinctive colorations. These "designer" Dragons display
brilliant hues of pastel oranges, violets, and reds. The most popular morph thus far has been the "Sand Fire" Dragon, which
exhibits a bright red-orange color with black stripes. A more unusual sub-breed is the leatherback, and another of that is the
silk-back. These Dragons have reduced or no scales respectively, creating a smoother appearance. Much like designer dogs,
the price tags of these customized pets are many times the price of Dragons without a specific morph.
To sex a Dragon, one must hold the tail up and look above the cloaca, also known as the vent. Males have two hemipenal
bulges just above it, creating an hourglass shaped indent. Females have only a single lump. Males are also known to have
large femoral pores along the inner thigh. Dragons also will brumate, a period similar to a mammal's hibernation. The animal
will become lethargic and not come out that often, eating less and less. It's often a concern to those unfamiliar with it, as
lethargy and lessened appetite usually mean illness. When brumation starts to happen, it's suggested to go to a veterinarian
with a fresh fecal sample for inspection for illness and parasites. Dragons can lay up to 50 eggs a clutch. Females have been
known to eat the eggs that were not fertilized or stillborn.
Diseases
When provided with the proper habitat, temperatures, and UVB lighting, Bearded Dragons are hardy lizards. They are also pets
who do their best to hide health problems when becoming ill (as do most reptiles). This is probably an instinctual behavior,
since a sick Dragon in the wild would probably not live long. The most common diseases they get are: mites, terminal
ingestion, thermal burns, calcium deficiency, impaction, hypovitaminosis A, respiratory infections, dehydration, stomatitis,
internal parasites, coccidia and other parasites, dystocia (egg binding), and MBD.
Notes/Comments
Bearded Dragons are attractive, low-maintenance lizards that grow into large, robust captives when properly cared for. These
tractable lizards have frequently been the beginning of a growing fascination with lizard keeping for many herpers. There are
myriad morphs of the Bearded Dragon being bred on a yearly basis. Beardies are an excellent choice for the beginning
herpetoculturist and can make a very nice display animal.
|
|
